The Saraswat cuisine continues to be a sought-after branch of Goa’s culinary legacy. However, apart from a handful of eateries, a few establishments have delved into this culinary treasure trove. To fill that void, the quintessentially Goan Specialty Dining – Miguel Arcanjo at Taj Exotica Resort & Spa in Benaulim has collaborated with Saraswat cuisine expert Chef Shubhra Shankhwalker to bring forth some long-forgotten recipes.
The restaurant itself is a breath of fresh air with its calming yet lively azure and white walls. Surrounded by scenic views, the wide windows overlook the green expanse of the resort’s sprawling lawns. You can also take in the majestic views of the Arabian Sea from its alfresco section. Overall, it’s the perfect ambience to indulge into the scrumptious offerings of the Saraswat Food Festival that is currently underway. Chef Shubhra leaves no stone unturned in showcasing the authentic cuisine that is true to its roots.
Right from the start, this delightful feast is a revelation. Sipping on the very refreshing Bindachi Sarbat, made from fresh kokum fruit (not the dried rind), you begin to wonder what other hidden gems you may discover. Every sip is a much-needed respite from the heat, but sadly, the drink can be made only for a period of 20-30 days in a year.
Like the Sarbat, there are other strictly seasonal delicacies for the curious foodies to sample. And so, apart from the ubiquitous comfort foods like the Prawn Curry and Chicken Xacutti, the seasonals, like Kaazwachi Shaak – a cashew apple curry – and Torachi Uddamethi – made with raw mangoes – find a place in this menu. Carefully curated with rich aromas and flavours Chef Shubhra says, “The ingredients are unique to our cuisine; for example, many people don’t know that a cashew fruit can make a delicious shaak or curry.” Undoubtedly, the taste of these delicacies is unique too, ranging from robust to sublime. Even the prawn curry in the Saraswat-style is very different from what is available generally, it’s a familiar feel but with a difference.
Coming back to the Shaak, the recipe comes from Chef’s mother-in-law, a legacy well-preserved. “A hidden gem, this curry has a strong flavour of the Kazu fruit (cashew), sweet and tangy.”, says Chef. Eaten with rice, its sweetness can be balanced out with the accompanying pickles and the spicy traditional Goan papads, locally sourced from her grandmother’s favourite vendors.
All the delectable preparations available for the festival, as Chef points out, is what a traditional Saraswat household would cook. Be it the Bharile Bangde or stuffed mackerel, with its stuffing of coriander leaves, to the Sungtache Dangar a variant of the prawn cutlet. Chef explains, “The Bharile Bangde is quite popular in my home and the Dangars are unlike the ones we have at other places. Usually they are similar to cutlets but Dangars are supposed to be flat, thin and fried crisp, the taste and texture is thus completely different.” For the crab lovers, there’s the Kurlyo Fry, again a seasonal delicacy as these are the soft-shell white crabs. Unlike the commonly found rawa fried crabs, these are fried with a rice flour coating, thus lending a peculiar texture and delicious taste.
Many of these delicacies have been driven to obscurity and the original names have been forgotten. One such delight is the Shepuche Dhonas, a cake made from the dill leaves. It probably went by another name in the good old days, “The recipe was passed down by my mother-in-law, and since she didn’t know what it was called, she christened it ‘Dhonas’ akin to the Pansache (jackfruit) Dhonas,” shares Chef Shubhra. Each bite into the Dhonas, you are greeted with a strong flavour complemented by that of the other ingredients including cashew, ghee and the grainy texture of the semolina. For some, this will be a nostalgic trip down memory lane.
Recognised for its commitment to promote authentic Goan cuisine, Miguel Arcanjo is a celebration of Goa’s rich and diverse culinary history. This April, delve into an immersive experience of century-old Saraswat recipes paired with the signature Taj hospitality in the quaint village of Benaulim where culinary excellence is redefined.
Date: 13th – 14th April & 27th – 28th April
Time: 7:00 pm to 11:00 pm
Venue: Miguel Arcanjo, Goan Speciality Dining at Taj Exotica Resort & Spa, Goa
For reservations, contact: +91 9910081259
