The Mandovi River derived from a Persian word meaning ‘Custom House’, was changed from Gomati, by Adil Shah, the Sultan of Bijapur…so rich were the revenues it earned for its sovereign. History engulfs you in this very hotel named after the majestic river, in which Adil Shah had crocodiles that were so huge that they could upset a big boat or swallow a big bull, to keep intruders at bay…fascinating. And so is the restaurant Rio Rico, a tradition and legacy of the past. And with the spread it serves one can imagine what the crocodiles felt…ravenous. The restaurant is designed in the Art Deco concept , the baby grand piano on the stage still a legacy since the hotels inception. The kitchens of this hotel has been catering to celebrities galore. It is rumoured that some of the legendary cooks still exist perhaps as old as the hotel itself.
The waiter walks softly across the wooden floor…the marble around it originated from Italy. Old favourites – Prawn Stuffed Papad, Fish Fingers for starters. Chicken Cafreal, Prawn Curry Rice with kishmur, Pork Vindaloo. Your mind drifts back in time to the diners who would vend their way up the red carpeted staircase, hand over their hats and cloaks to the hat check room on the landing, straighten their ties in front of the large ornate mirror before entering the restaurant . There used to be a strict dress code in those days, and from 1952 to 1961, the guest at a princely sum of Rs 600 a month could have all the meals in the house absolutely free, and were free to invite their guests to tea. Coming back to the food: with the ambience of the days gone by, it is a treat for those who would like to seep in the history of the state.
Even as the performer who is belting out local Goan melodies brings back nostalgic memories. The dance floor filled with laughing couples…even in 1954, when there was an economic blockade imposed by the Government of India, the steaks were got from south Africa and Argentina, Oranges from Israel, Potatoes from Holland and apples from Japan. History buffs take time out…the dessert – tender Coconut Souffle is a must order. From 1952, the restaurant has stood as a beacon for every boat entering the river with tourists galore, and its legacy in terms of Goan atmosphere , grandeur , ambience , food , tradition and culture will linger on for many more years to come.
0832 2426270/73, 2424405, 2224405/07
Hotel Mandovi, D.B.Marg, Panaji, Goa
