In the heart of Candolim, Goa, Kokum Curry offers a culinary experience unlike any other. A restaurant dedicated to serving authentic Saraswat cuisine, it emerged as a beacon for those who seek the subtle, sophisticated flavors of this underrepresented genre. Spearheaded by Sapna Sardessai, a woman whose journey from journalism to advertising to publishing and finally to the restaurant industry is nothing short of inspiring, Kokum Curry stands tall as a celebration of Goa’s cultural and culinary richness.
The Story Behind Kokum Curry
Sapna Sardessai’s journey is a testament to resilience and adaptability. “I worked as a journalist for seven years before starting my own advertising agency,” she shares. Her venture soon transformed into a successful publishing firm, Printer’s Devil, in 2003. But in 2021, amid the uncertainties of the pandemic, a new opportunity arose. When businesses were closing down, she was approached by Prakash Pereira of the Armacar Group to lead a restaurant that would specialize in heritage Saraswat cuisine. Thus, Kokum Curry was born in October 2021.
Sapna’s connection to the culinary world wasn’t new, however. She had long been sharing her love for food on social media, amassing a following with her food albums and recipes. “I have over 10 albums with 300 images of food and corresponding recipes on Facebook alone, called Foodstyle,” she mentions. Her food photos and heritage dishes were well-received, and many saw her restaurant venture as a natural progression of her passion.
Inspiration Behind an Authentic Koknni Restaurant
What inspired Sapna to open a restaurant dedicated to Saraswat cuisine? She saw an opportunity to bring a lesser-known culinary tradition into the spotlight. “Authentic Saraswat cuisine is very subtle and sophisticated,” she explains. Historically confined to Saraswat kitchens, the cuisine had rarely made its way to restaurants, which are dominated by more mainstream offerings. Kokum Curry became a platform to share this sacred culinary heritage with the world, from locals to tourists who visit Goa seeking an authentic taste of the region.
Sapna’s decision to focus on this particular genre was motivated by the desire to introduce visitors to the real flavors of Goa. While multicuisine options abound in Goa’s bustling restaurant scene, Kokum Curry offers something different. It specializes in niche, authentic Saraswat dishes that are gaining rapid popularity, especially among those who appreciate the intricacies of regional cuisine. Kokum Curry has an outlet in Panjim, located within a 300-year-old heritage building.
The Challenges and Rewards of Starting Kokum Curry
Starting a restaurant is never an easy task, especially without formal training in hospitality. Yet, Sapna’s determination and natural talent for cooking made the journey a fulfilling one. “Curating the menu was easy; I had it all figured out in my mind,” she says. However, the application of these ideas required effort, particularly in training the staff to get the exact taste of the dishes just right.
Building a steady clientele involved more than just perfecting the recipes. Sapna leaned on her social and people management skills, which she had developed over years in journalism and advertising. Her passion and sincerity helped her overcome the challenges, making the experience feel less like work and more like a labor of love.
What Makes Koknni Cuisine Unique?
Koknni cuisine is characterized by its use of fresh, local ingredients and its complex layers of flavor. “It is very niche, fast gaining in popularity,” says Sapna. The restaurant offers a wide range of Saraswat dishes, including those that are rarely found outside of Goan homes. For example, the restaurant avoids using vinegar, a common ingredient in Goan cooking, as it’s not traditional to Saraswat cuisine. Instead, Kokum and other natural ingredients like tamarinds are used as souring agents, adding an authentic touch to the food.
Though the primary focus remains on Koknni cuisine, Kokum Curry also serves a few fusion dishes, prepared in the traditional style. “We serve dishes like Chicken Cafreal, Mutton Sukka, Prawn Rissois,” says Sapna, ensuring that while they may be popular dishes, they are prepared with the same care as the authentic Saraswat offerings.
Curating the Menu: A Delicate Balance of Tradition and Innovation
The menu at Kokum Curry is ever-evolving. Sapna ensures that customer favorites remain, but new dishes are added regularly. “We retain the favorites and keep adding new dishes,” she says. The menu also features five different Thaalis, offering diners a curated sampling of Saraswat cuisine.
Specials for the Day keep the menu fresh, with items that go beyond the standard offerings. Sapna’s personal favorites? The Chicken Shagoti and Sungtacho Potli Pulaav, Paavacho Saano and Kaanyachi Bhaakri are must-try dishes that showcase the depth of flavors Saraswat cuisine has to offer.
Sourcing Ingredients Locally for Authenticity
Maintaining the authenticity of the dishes is of paramount importance at Kokum Curry, and that begins with the ingredients. The restaurant relies heavily on local and seasonal produce to craft its dishes, ensuring that the flavors remain true to the Saraswat tradition. “The entire month of Shraavan was dedicated to fruits and foliage available during the monsoons,” Sapna shares, explaining how special thaalis were curated around seasonal ingredients.
Most ingredients are sourced from local vendors and establishments, reinforcing the restaurant’s commitment to supporting the community while ensuring the highest quality.
Creating a Memorable Dining Experience
At Kokum Curry, customer experience is at the heart of everything they do. Sapna ensures that every meal is generously portioned, reasonably priced, and of the highest quality. Her personal supervision ensures that the food is prepared with care, and that customers leave satisfied.
“We are very focused on customer satisfaction,” she says. For Sapna, the goal is to create an environment where diners not only enjoy the food but also feel the warmth and hospitality that defines Goan culture.
Growth and Recognition: A Testament to Kokum Curry’s Success
In just two years, Kokum Curry has expanded from one restaurant to two, a significant milestone that speaks to its success. The accolades have also poured in. “The Times has honored us with two awards so far,” says Sapna. The International Institute of Hotel Management has recognized the restaurant’s work twice, and Business Goa recently awarded it the title of Best Saraswat Restaurant.
Kokum Curry has also caught the attention of major food influencers and media outlets. Condé Nast Traveller named it a must-visit spot in Panjim, and foodies like Kunal Vijaykar and Kamiya Jani have featured the restaurant on their platforms. However, for Sapna, the greatest recognition comes from the customers who leave the restaurant with a smile and a full heart. “The blessings that we receive from our guests after they have had a hearty meal are by far our best rewards,” she shares.
Preserving and Promoting Koknni Culture
Kokum Curry is more than just a restaurant; it is a vessel for preserving and promoting Koknni culture. “The dishes we prepare are as authentic as they can get,” Sapna explains. Many of the recipes used at the restaurant are vanishing from modern kitchens, and the nostalgia they evoke in customers is profound.
The attention to detail is evident in every dish. “There are no mother gravies, and no two dishes use the same wet masalas,” says Sapna. Every element of the meal is prepared from scratch, with no shortcuts taken. This dedication to tradition ensures that each dish at Kokum Curry is a true representation of Saraswat heritage.
Looking Toward the Future: What’s Next for Kokum Curry?
As Kokum Curry continues to grow, there are plenty of exciting plans on the horizon. From new festival menus to possible expansions, Sapna remains committed to offering a unique dining experience. “One cannot stop growth, we leave any expansion plan to that point in time,” she says, hinting at future possibilities without revealing too much.
In the meantime, customers can look forward to seasonal menus, new dishes, and the same warm hospitality that has made Kokum Curry a beloved spot for Saraswat cuisine in Goa.
