When the beaches of the north get too busy, sometimes all you need is peace a quiet. A place where you can collect your thoughts, paint, write or just listen to the sound of the waves while maybe watching a boat pass. Mobor beach, a stretch of beach that connects to Cavelossim used to be one of those quieter and more secluded beaches, and though commercialism may have got the better of it with major hotels taking up residency on its sands, there is still one spot – possibly the only spot, that is worth making the trip for, the peninsula where the Arabian Sea enters Goa to form the Sal River.
The long journey down South
Getting to Cavelossim and then Mobor which is a village in Cavelossim itself is not as difficult as getting to some secluded beach coves in Goa. Though you could pass through Margao and take the road from Navelim to Varca, the other option is to take a right at the Margao circle before entering the city, and head towards Colva. While on that road there are many beach options as you journey from Colva through Varca, and then Carmona before reaching Cavelossim. If you feel like digressing from your trip to Mobor, Sernabatim beach is worth a mention, as the white sands and sumptuous beach shack food is the first choice for many of the Salcette locals. While in Varca, if you’re looking for a touch of history, then a great place to visit would be the San Thome Museum. The museum stocks rare antiquities, old typewriters such as the Remington 10, a First World War era writer, and other photographs, gramophone players, watches and even a Schiedmier vintage grand piano, one of the only known working models in Asia, complete with ivory keys that date back to 1961.
If you need to stock up on snacks and replenishments, a Magson’s Super Centre should meet your requirements, since once you pass Varca, you won’t find too many options for provisions, save for the local general stores. Since the Mobor peninsula is also the perfect place for a picnic, carrying sandwiches along the way may be a great idea. Having passed through Varca and then Carmona which is easy, thanks to the numerous road signs that are posted at junctions, the main Cavelossim road will spring to life with the hustle and bustle of the roadside shops and restaurants. There are many options to eat and drink if required, and if by this time you still haven’t carried cash with you, stop at an ATM in Cavelossim since you won’t find one once you have entered Mobor.
The true taste of Goa
Follow the main road down towards the Leela Goa Beach Resort, and at the main gate to the hotel, you will be presented with two options, a fork in the road that leads either to the Mobor peninsula on the left, or the beach on the right. If you’re looking for a shack to have a good lunch, Vernon’s Beach Shack is one of the only shacks around and is right on the beach. Over a sumptuous lunch of prawn curry and rice, proprietor Xavier Gonzalves informed, “Mobor is the kind of beach you would come to escape the noise. During the season, you will find just three shacks here, though further up the road towards Cavelossim you’ll find the main market area which does get very busy.” Backtracking to the Leela gate, if you take the road down on the left, you will find a narrow road that leads parallel to the Sal River. Docked along the side, you will find a plethora of fishing boats, and the area is quite busy with the fisherfolk preparing their nets for fresh catches. Travel down till the end of the road, park your vehicle and start walking right through the foliage and on to the beach. Since the walk up to the peninsula takes about ten minutes, make sure you carry a bottle of water, and once you’ve reached the tip – just soak up the experience.
A once in a lifetime experience
The feeling at the Mobor peninsula is one that is difficult to describe. While there, you can actually see the converging waves of the Sal river and the Arabian Sea as they hit a midpoint where the river is trying to flow out, while the sea is trying to flow in. Since the peninsula is completely uninhabited, with the exception of a small beachside resort approximately 200 meters up the beach, the Mobor peninsula makes for a great place to put out a blanket, open up a picnic basket, and allow time to stand still for a while. Do ensure that you pack up any refuse that you may have since there is nowhere to dispose of it till you reach Cavelossim.
The view of the peninsula from the hill on the other side is just as breath-taking, if not more, but getting there will require you to back-track to Cavelsossim. Make your way back down the main road from The Leela Goa Resort, and at the Mobor Resort (which is on the Cavelossim main road), and take a right at DeMello Pharmacy. Follow the road down till the end and take a right again to head towards the newly constructed bridge that leads to Assolna. The bridge in itself is quite beautiful as it spans across the Sal River, and since it’s not very busy, the bridge also serves as a place for people to jog or walk, or just chill out along the side wall eating choris pao and conversing. Once on the other side of the bridge, take a right again and follow the road into Velim.
While there, ask the locals for directions to the Holy Cross chapel of Baradi, the most popular of miraculous crosses in Salcette which is situated on a monte. From there, the view of Mobor is absolutely spectacular. Apart from just the intersection of the Sal and the Arabian Sea, your view spans the length of the Sal through almost six different villages, right from Cavelossim, to Vasco, and Chandor. Below you can see pristine green fields while watching the trawlers and seafarers going about their business. The ‘Santa Khuris’ of Baradi is known for its miraculous powers and is revered by the faithful across Salcette. The chapel at the Baradi monte is also a popular place for people to come and relax on the benches that are provided while enjoying the view in peace. Since this is a place of worship, strict decorum is advised. If you don’t mind a few mosquitoes as the day turns to dusk, the sunset at ‘Santa Khuris’ makes for a perfect end to the day.